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How Green is My Garden
by Dolores DeSalvo

ARTICLE

"Last Year's Seed"
Broadcast on: January 21, 2006

Hello! What a weird, wacky, wild winter! That rain – that snow – that rain – all in the course of a few days! Cabin fever temperatures have been running high as outside temperatures play pogo stick with us. I say it’s time for a well-deserved break from this roller coaster weather.

By now those mail order catalogs have been dribbling in. Aren’t they just tempting you with promises of green things – of delicious green things – of splashes of vibrant rainbow colors come springtime? And in all reality, springtime really isn’t that far off. Those warm days of winter tend to remind us that spring is really, really coming! Some days you can even smell it!

But before you hunker down and dive into those refreshing garden catalogs and plunk down some serious seed orders for some delicious veggies, come back down to reality. Come back and take some time to go through all of the leftover seed you still have from last year.

How good is that seed? How fresh is that seed? How viable is that seed? How well has that seed been stored? Keep in mind, all varieties of seed have very definite shelf lives. Under the proper conditions, certain seed will continue to be viable (be able to germinate and live) for certain lengths of time.

For instance, seed viability for onion, sweet corn, parsley, and parsnips is only about 1 year or so. The seed for asparagus, peas, beans, carrots, okra, and peppers last longer – 2 to 3 years. The vegetable seed with the longest shelf lives are beets, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, melon, pumpkin, radish, spinach, squash, tomato, turnip, and watermelon. Gees, have I left anybody out? All of these kinds of seeds should last 4-5 years under the right conditions.

Seed packets all have their packing dates on them. Rack seed is always fresh; seed germination rates are always listed on those seed packets. That’s why it’s always a good idea to always keep the seed packets with those seeds. So – those seed packets with their packing dates stamped on them – check them out! And if they are too old – then chuck them out!

Remember now, those seed storage times assume that the seed has been stored correctly. And just what does that mean? I thought you’d never ask!

Seed must be kept in a dry, cool, dark place. Otherwise they might start to rot or mold over, or even sprout right in the seed packet. Perhaps they just won’t sprout at all! Or a small percentage of them may still come up while the majority has lost their viability.

Seed storage temperatures between 32 and 41 degrees are ideal; humidity should be less than 60%. Some gardeners always store their seed in plastic containers or bags in the freezer. If there is no room for your seed in your freezer, then the fridge is fine. Just make sure that you label those containers or bags, so those seeds don’t get dumped or eaten.

If your fridge is not a practical location for your seed, then find any other cool, dark, dry place for storage. Alternative spots could be in a garage, or in a closet or cabinet, or in a cellar that’s not too damp. Do package that seed securely so that those 4-footed varmints, otherwise known as Mickey Mouse’s relatives, don’t get to them before you do!

What to store them in? Well, as we’ve already stated, try to keep them in the original seed packets. Seed packets usually have very helpful information on them (maturity dates, germination rates, packing dates, and general planting requirements, etc.). You can also store the seed in empty, old prescription bottles, or in film canisters, or in glass jars with screw-on lids, or in those trusty, handy-dandy plastic Ziploc bags. All of these kinds of containers protect the seeds from outside moisture and pests. Be sure to label those containers.

To further ensure low moisture and dry conditions, you can add a packet of desiccant powder (silica gel). This can be found in craft departments; it’s used for drying cut flowers. Tiny packets of silica gel are often inside new shoes to reduce the moisture and humidity. Silica gel will do the trick, but it is not cheap.

A practical alternative to silica gel is powdered dry milk. Simply place about a tablespoon of powdered milk in the middle of several layers of facial tissue. Wrap it all up and secure it with a rubber band. These dry milk de-humidifiers will work effectively for a few months, just enough time until seed planting begins.

Keep in mind, the goal is to keep your stored seed viable for as long as possible. And with proper storage, you can get maximum mileage out of your leftover seeds. Light, heat, high moisture – all of these lessen seed life expectancy. So you have to do your very best to help things along. And if you have any doubts about your seed’s viability, discard them – chuck them out! Start out fresh and new with fresh and new seed for a fresh and new growing seed.

Hey – Remember – Eat Smart New York!

And – Bye – Talk to you soon!

D

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